A foot (or few) on Angola

August 22, 2024

Today we got up, but it was very hard because it was SO COLD! The tents we were in had blankets and not sleeping bags, but one can only get so warm. 

We had our breakfast and hit the road. Today we should be getting to camp a little after lunch. 

We make a few stops for bathroom and petrol. We made it to the large town of Rundu to get food and snacks for today. It’s only about 30 minutes from camp, but Noel says that it’s more dangerous because it’s busy so we are to be escorted everywhere. He takes us as a group to the grocery store and then we all have to wait until everyone is done before we can go back to the truck. He then escorts those who need cash to the atms. 

We hit the road again for our 30 minute drive to camp. While they set up camp we go for a briefing at the lodge. Here we find out that there are three activities we can do today (and we can do all three of them). First is the village tour where we can go visit a few families and see how they make a living, see their food and see their dwellings. The second is a boat cruise that will also illegally take us to Angola. The third is a traditional dance show after dinner. The total cost to do all three of these items is $20. And because time allows I do all three. 

The little village was super interesting and very humbling. We walk about 15 minutes to this village with a volunteer guide (who works for tips). She introduces us to a grandma with five grandchildren she is taking care of. Their mother died three years ago during COVID. The village lost three members to COVID (they have about 2,000 people in this village). They have an outdoor kitchen and two dwellings. The one dwelling used to be where they slept but it started leaking (which it does after about 6-8 years) so they only use it to store things now. The second dwelling is where they now sleep. Six people in a space of about a king size bed. It’s cooler inside, but the only thing they do in there is sleep. One of the children was ill and she had some sort of homeopathic cream on her face. She doesn’t even rest inside, she just stays in the shade outside. 

The next family we went to was a family of eight. They normally make their money from a homemade beer/wine type beverage – but the harvest wasn’t great this year so no beverage sales. They have chickens to barter and trade with to supplement their income. 

There was a major drought this year so the governor offered assistance of a 20kg bag of maize meal (corn meal), 1.5kg of fresh meat and 750ml of cooking oil. For the family of eight that would last maybe one week. Thankfully the money we paid ($5) go to the two families we went to see – it is split between them. We also all gave them some money. And the Italian girls had pencils and paper to give them. 

After the village it was rush back to camp and grab my hat and water for the boat cruise. This boat was hilarious. It was a true “redneck” boat. It was a pontoon made of eight 55 gallon barrels, wood planks and an old boat motor that is clearly from another boat. We barely moved. It was hilarious. But it was also very relaxing. We cruised for about 30 minutes, and the guide let me drive the boat! Some teenage girls saw us coming so they crossed the river (there is little to no current and it’s only about 3-4′ deep) and welcomed us to Angola with a song and little dance. They then held the boat while we went and took pictures because we are in Angola, even though it’s only dry riverbed. 

We have the girls a ride halfway back across the river and then hung out and waited for sunset. They have all been the most beautiful sunsets – pictures just don’t do justice. 

After the boat ride it was back to get my tent room unpacked and ready for bed, before dinner was served. 

Promise has been making wonderful meals and tonight was no different. We had pasta and veggie stroganoff, the meat eaters had beef stroganoff. 

Once full, Noel told us that we had to leave early tomorrow because we a six hour drive ahead and an afternoon game drive (in the bus). We all headed over to the lodge again for the dancing. It was very cool to see and hear. 

Brit and I raced back to camp to beat everyone to the showers before bed. The water was ICE cold. I still showered and washed my hair, she was smarter and did not wash her hair – but she also had a bit of warm water. 

Tomorrow will be a long day – but we are getting to stay in Etosha park so it should be amazing!