Silverbacks

August 13, 2024

Today is the day! It’s off to the gorillas today! I got up before my alarm because I was so excited. I had a very large breakfast (because they keep providing too much food) and got ready for my driver to head towards the center where we get our education before heading to the trail head.

My driver prides himself on being early to these things so I can get the best group (his words, not mine). When we got there, there were about 30 people already there. People were continuing to flow into the center all geared up. Here I am in my Nike free runs and a pair of hiking pants, a long sleeve shirt and sunglasses. Others were in hiking boots, boot covers, two layers of pants, multiple layers of shirts and their hiking sticks. And about 95% of these items were brand new.

I need to be comfortable if Im about to walk for up to 3 hours one way and I didnt feel it necessary to buy all new things for a single use. Our guide said “you are all adults, Ill tell you if you are doing something wrong.” My kinda guy.

My driver said we were taking the guide with us to the trail head, fine by me…..maybe? They said it was a 25 minute drive to the trailhead. In reality it was a 25 minute ROAD drive to the ROCKY road that was another 25 minutes – they call it “African massage.” At least we were going so slow that I couldnt have gotten car sick.

We basically end up in a little town and park the car. They hand us little walking sticks with gorillas on them and ask who needs a porter. These porters will carry whatever you want them to. They used to be poachers or part of the poaching gang, the country is giving them a moral way to earn income. It was $10 to use the porter. So, after ALL of these hikes, stairs, and hills I have climbed – I FINALLY GOT MY SHERPA (porter). Im sure PB doesnt read this, but if he does, Im sure he’s laughing now.

Anyway, time to head out! We have about a 45 minute walk through the locals farm fields. We got to see how they farm potatoes and these daisies that are exported for organic insect repellant in other countries (they said there are no mosquitos at that elevation?)

When we finally got to the base of the mountain they had us “gear up.” All these people started pulling out EVEN MORE equpiment!! Another layer, gloves, hats; its all so confusing!! I just put my long sleeve shirt back on. They warned us about stinging nettles – and I know Kristi has been stung by them before, but shes still standing, so Ill survive.

They said our hike was only about 150 meters, basically straight up a muddy hill. Here goes nothing! It was actually a struggle, not the easiest hike Ive ever done. Im glad I remembered my inahlers. But, I did it and we got to a flat-ish area. At this point our guide told us we needed to leave our sticks and put on masks. This group of gorillas is recently getting over a “cold” that came from humans. Our guide said they would be a little more docile than others.

There was a family of five in our group that had gone to the gorillas yesterday as well and they confirmed these were more relaxed. But anyway, our first encounter was a mama, a teenager and a silverback. The silverback was behind a bush, the teenager was in the bush and the mama was in front of the bush. It was SO SHOCKING!! I could not believe how close we were to these huge, wild animals.

Everyone was getting their pictures and the gorillas were on the move – down the hill they went. We were allowed to follow them, being advised by our guides and the trackers. The rule is that human tourists are only allowed to spend one hour in their presence so we took all we could get. The clan ended up being about 15 that we got to spend time with. We were told that this clan had 18 – but I dont recall seeing that many. We saw little ones swinging from the vines, some moms breastfeeding and everyone eating!

After our hour, the porters met us where we had ended our little excursion and we only had a short hike back down the hill into the farm fields. The walk back was nice as well. However, I had been stung multiple times by the nettles so I had some burning….on my neck, my ankles, back of my knee But none of this was painful – just burning!

I paid my porter when we got back to the car park and my driver hurried me up. We headed back to the lodge. We got back right around lunch, so of course I was again fed! My driver left and told me he would be back at 645am again tomorrow – I had lots of free time. I asked the staff if I could walk to the Ellen educational center, ya know like 10 minute walk from there. They said yes, but then one of the very kind staff members said he would walk me over there. Another staff member came and took my shoes and socks, they handed me flip flops to wear. I immediately went to my room to grab my slides .

So after lunch, of course it decided to start sprinkling, so the staff member also grabbed me an umbrella. It was a quick ten minute walk over to the center. They require your passport in order to enter, its very weird how much your passport is used for the random entrance requirements to things.

The staff member (its not that I didnt ask his name, no one ever actually gave me their name) walked me in and then said he would be waiting for me when I was done, about 90 minutes (they always say one hour and one half). You “have” to give a minimum $20 donation in order to get in (at least they take credit card). Then Ellen gives a welcome message before you go into the museum. It is here you learn all about Dian Fossey and her impact on the gorillas and the conservation of them.

She is the reason that we are even able to go into the mountains to spend time with the gorillas – she spent years with them, sleeping with them, learning their ways, etc. There is a reproduction of her cabin – with many of her own items on display. There are some of her belongings all over the center. There are two videos that are played in a little theater as well (I believe that Madison Square Garden owner came here and realized how cool a true 360 experience would be) it was almost 360* of screen around the room. There is a little VR station and it was very unique experience. After that, we headed back to the lodge.

I went back to my room to journal and relax. Before dinner, I headed back to the lodge to read again. Dinner was again wonderful – but this time it was just me and the couple – the Japanese group had moved on.